Cape Reinga - the place where spirits enter the underworld

Cape Reinga / Te Rerenga Wairua, is the northwestern most tip of the North Island of New Zealand. Cape Reinga is more than 100 km north of the nearest small town of Kaitaia. In Māori, "Te Rerenga Wairua" means the leaping-off place of spirits and "Reinga" is the Māori word for underworld. Both refer to the Māori belief that the cape is the point where the spirits of the dead enter the underworld.

THE DESTINATION

2/3/20253 min read

According to oral tradition, the solitary Pohutakawa tree standing sentry on the farthest reaches of Cape Reinga is over 800 years old and the final destination for the spirits of the dead as they journey to the underworld. Maori tradition teaches that all spirits of New Zealand, Aotearoa make their way up the North Island to Cape Reinga, then dive into the waters where the Pacific Ocean meets the Tasman Sea on their journey to the final resting place, making it a journey of pilgrimage for every biker during their time in New Zealand.

Visiting the Lighthouse at Cape Reinga is a popular tourist destination for many people visiting New Zealand for the first time. Access to the Lighthouse is an easy walk and provides a great viewing point to witness the "meeting of the waters" at the top of the island.

With the Tasman Sea running up the West Coast of the South Island and the South Pacific Ocean following the East Coast, these great waterways eventually meet at the top of the North Island, with clashing of differing currents, water density, and tides, creating a distinct line of white foam, swirling eddies, and contrasting water colours (turquoise vs. deep blue) that is visible from the headland and the Cape Reinga Lighthouse.

When travelling up from Auckland, the best approach to the "Far North" is to ride up the West Coast and return down the East Coast. On the upward journey, when riding through the Wiapoua Forest offers some challenging roads with sharp and sweeping corners, tree-lines right to the road and an opportunity to visit Tāne Mahuta, located in the Waipoua Forest in the Northland Region of the North Island, near Dargaville. In Māori oral tradition, Tāne Mahuta is the paramount god of forests and birds, and the son of Ranginui (Sky Father) and Papatūānuku (Earth Mother) and is the god credited with originally seperating the sky and the earth to create the world we have today.

Continuing on via Twin Coast Discovery Highway through Dargeville will eventually bring you through Opononi and onto Rawene, a couple of small rural towns with particular charm and some interesting history. Explore the Koutu Boulders at low tide, walk the Waiotemarama Loop Track to see the 20-meter waterfall, or hike the Waimamaku Coastal Track for expansive views. There are plenty of great spots to stop here for a meal and drink before boarding the Rawene Ferry to traverse the Hokianag Harbour for the last leg to Cape Reinga.

Once you're on the northern shore of the Hokianga Harbour, you have the choice to either continue up the West Coast to Apihara and onto Kaitaia, or jouney inland to Mangamuku then up to Kaitaia. As you head North, the roads widen and become easier riding with more fuel stops and small townships along the way. Since you've come all this way, you may want to stop off at 90 Mile Beach for a photo opportunity, or just a rest - but don't take the bikes onto the sand. They're cruisers, not scramblers.

When you arrive at Cape Reinga, if you're considering staying a night up there - there's a DOC (Govt) camping site at Spirit Bay. The road in is gravel for about 16km's, so you'll need to be comfortable with some slower riding and uneven surfaces, but it's a great site to camp for a night. Costing around $18 a night per person, it's a 'first in - first served' camping experience.

When you come back down the island, travelling the East Coast roads will offer a completely different experience. West Coast beaches are grey iron sand and rugged blue coastlines with challenging roads and heavy bush. East Coast beaches are white sand and tranquil green seas. Some notable places to stop would be Mangonui, Kerikeri, Paihia, Waitangi, Whangarei and Waipu - but you'll find more specific posts on some of these places on our website.